Jakarta Landmark - Monas

It is tempting to refer to Indonesia's National Monument by its endearing and enduring popular term, 'Soekarno Final Erection'. This could be considered disrespectful to the country's statue-loving, womanizing first president. Monas is short for Monumen Nasional, and lies in what should be the lungs of Jakarta - a large park surrounded by traffic fumes and political demonstrations.

Monas was first commissioned by Sukarno in 1961 but wasn't officially opened until 1975 by his successor and nemesis, President Soeharto. The 132-meter tower is made of Italian marble and capped by a glittering bronze flame gilded with 35 kilos of gold leaf. Far more impressive than the structure itself is the compulsive symbolism inherent in it: The date of Indonesia's declaration onf independence, 17/8/1945 is incorporated into practically every nook and cranny. The lower terrace measures 45 and 45 meters ansd sits 17 meters above ground level. 17 steps lead to tower's entrance, and its tunnel is 45 meters long; even the surrounding fence boasts a very patriotic 1,945 pillars; whether or not the tower's opening hours (08:00-17:00) are but an extension of the same obsession is anyone's guess.

Underneath the imposing structure is a museum where cool dioramas depict watershed moments in Indonesian history through the ewes of the paranoid Soeharto regime - arguably the greatest re-writers of history ever. The dark, cavernous Soviet-style hall that houses the museum is far too big for its stated purpose. It should instead be used for giant raves. It could be re-named the Monas-try of Sound. The acoustics would be spectacular.

But for all the nationalist imagery here, Monas Park can still be a great place for a stroll. In the early morning it is dotted with exercise groups on their daily workout. In the afternoon, horse carriages ferry families and youg couples around the cobblestone plaza that circles the monument. And the street market that unfolds here each night is typical of the bustling bazaars found in cities across Indonesia. Everything is for sale:inflatable Teletubbies and imitation name-brand shoed;cacophonous alarm clocks and bulk shampoo; flimsily assembled disco lights and even flimsier cassette players; bumper stickers bearing Islamic slogans or images of cult rock band Slank;cheap; colorful children's clothing and budget accessories for the car cotton candy and fried tofu; prayer mats and bed linen;fake Rolexes and spicy fried rice.